Dare to Dirndl?

I did (and finally posted the pictures)!

Making a sloper is slow and arduous, so I decided to draft something easy.  Plus I need more skirts.  More solid colored skirts, really.

A few days after the end of the quarter, I ventured back into Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition) to draft up a dirndl with basic lapped waistband.  Yes, I know a dirndl is just a gathered rectangle skirt, but did you know that for a better fit, you should drop the waistline 1/4" at CB and gradually taper back to the correct side seam length?  Sounds counter intuitive, doesn't it!?  Why would you want to shorted the back piece at the CB?  There's a BOOTY back there!  Well, I learned that the reason for doing so is that your waistline actually does curve down a bit at the small of your back.  When you drape on a form, or draft patterns, you really start to notice these things.  Unless you have an extra ample booty, drop that waistline seam down 1/4" and the skirt will hang nicely and evenly all the way around the hemline!


This is how I drafted my skirt (per Mrs. Armstrong's instructions):

1)  Measure waistline (make sure it is comfortable and there is a bit of ease!) Let's say 26" (I realized that my waist is bigger now, sad!).

2) I chose a 2.5 to 1 gathering ratio so the total skirt width is 65".  At the time I was thinking about adding inseam pockets, but got too lazy.  (I wish I added them!)  I still opted for side seams though.  So I took 65" and divided it in 2.  The front panel is 32.5" and the back panels will be 16.25" each.  I wanted the zipper at center back.  Because of such a large ratio, I ended up fudging the numbers slightly and went with 32" and 16".  I also just assumed 1/2" seam allowance and did not add extra.  What's the point, right?

3) The length I chose was 20": 1/2" SA for the waistline, and a 3" hem.

4) The waistband length or circumference is your waist measurement (26") plus 1" extension, plus 1/2" SA on either side.  A total length of 28".  For the width, I chose 1.5" finished.   To do that, my width was 3" (1.5" x 2) plus 1/2" SA on the top and bottom for a total width of 4".

That's it! Those are your pieces.   Oh, and like I mentioned before, shave off that 1/4" at the CB of both back panels and gradually taper back to the 20" length at the SS.


More pictures of the dirndl:

I love the trim!  I was going to add a dainty crocheted lace trim, but my mom found this one instead.  I think its perfect!

The hem... I sewed a 3" invisible hem and then sewed the trim to the bottom. 

The waistband I topstitched the waistband down from the right side and caught the trim inside just above the gathers.

And this cute black and white vintage button finishes it off!

I really, really do recommend this book!  Well worth the price.


Finally, thanks to Amanda, Jeanettec, Fabiana, Christina, Tiffany Reagan, and Becca!  I know Tiffany Reagan and Becca both have blogs too, but I'm having trouble finding them.  Both are awesome contributors on Sew Retro!