Peplum Top Pattern Adjustment Tutorial

I promised a picture of the New Look 6130 peplum top facing pattern I redrafted and here it is:

Front facing.

Back facing.

The idea of having a neckline facing and an armsyce facing flapping around inside the shirt was gross to me, so using the main body pattern pieces I drafted my own facing and I think it worked pretty great. 

Here's how I did it:

1. First, draw on the sew lines on your pattern pieces.  In commercial patterns, this is usually 5/8."  I, however, changed all my seam allowances before I cut the pattern so my seam allowances were 1/2" for most seams, and 1/4" along the neckline and armsyce.  I also left a 5/8" SA at CB where I was inserting the zipper.  
2. Match up your sew lines on the front bodice pieces.  See my pattern below.  Can you see how the armhole matches up perfectly on the CF and SF bodice pieces?
3.  Place a piece of tracing paper over the pattern and pin/tape down. 
4. Your front facing should be  2-2.5" wide at the CF neck and 2-2.5" down from the bottom of the armhole, depending on how you will finish your edges. This is 2-2.5" from the sew line, not the cut line.  
5. Make sure your facing is square (at a right angle to) the CF vertical line.  At the sides seam, square a line the distance down from the armhole that you decided upon. 
6. Trace the shape  up the armhole 2-2.5" from the armhole, until you get to where an armhole notch might be.  That is where the shape starts to get a little wonky.  (the dashed lines curving around the armhole are 2.5" away from the cut line)
7. Use a french curve and/or a hip curve to connect the two lines (one starting from CF, one from the bottom of the armscye).  The shape should look smooth and natural.  See how it didn't on the back facing and I corrected it.  
8. At the sideseam,  mark 1/8" in at the bottom of the facing. From that 1/8" mark to zero at the underarm, draw a line.  This will be done on both front and back.  this small removal of fabric tightens up the facing a bit and prevents it from creeping out of the bodice.  
9. On the back, I did everything above, except the facing is wider (or longer?) at CB.  I like (and was taught) to make wider facings in back.  4 inches is a good length down from the neck on this pattern.  The back neck drop is fairly shallow, so this will work well and it won't be too deep.  Basically you don't want the facing overlapping your scapula bone (your chicken wing!).  Just like you don't want a tight facing going over your boobage!  
10.  One thing I forgot to do, but do it all the time was to decrease the shoulder width on both sides by about 1/16 - 1/8" depending on fabric thickness.  What you will do is mark both sides of the shoulder seam (on front and back facing) and blend to zero to about 2/3 the way to CF and 2/3" down the armhole, whatever blends naturally.  It's easy to see once you are doing it.  

the first step.  

That's it!

Let me know what you think!


Thanks to my newest followers!

scherimm
Becky Ensinger
Nina
Angie Newell

180! That's Amazing!

Here's a fun picture of Pearl:

Pearl modeling Fritz's Halloween costume...A Giant bath sponge!!! Yup, I made this one too in about an hour for $3.00.

HAHAHAHA!

It's Halloween Time! Ch-Ch-Ch...

CHIA!

When I was a kid, I loved Halloween.  As an adult, I'm not a huge fan of it.   But I do like dressing up my dogs in ridiculous costumes every year.  This year is the best by far.  I would like to introduce you to the newest knick-knack to adorn my bookshelf:

Ch-Ch-Ch-CHIA PEARL! *

It's like playing "Where's Waldo?"

Here's how I started:

A long time ago I drafted a onesie pattern from an existing dog outfit.  I made onesies before here and here. I redrafted the pattern this time, making it a little more professional.  My sewing has greatly improved since the last time I made Pearl's onesie so the construction method changed.  It went together fairly quickly and the fit is a lot better than before.

Here she is before her pjs became Chia-fied....

Pre-haircut...

 I then took apart fake hydrangeas I bought at Michaels and glued the individual buds to the base.  This process too two nights.  I used a stuffed animal roughly the size of Pearl to make it easier to glue the flowers. The glue and the flowers formed a hard shell.  I was not expecting this, but the outfit still fits the dog.

 I  couldn't resist placing her on the bedside table. She looks just like the real deal.  I wish I had video of her scurrying around on the floor as a chia pet.  It's almost eerie because at first glance it looks like  ceramic dog

And lastly, a close-up of Pearl.  I couldn't resist.  Her face is so cute in this picture.

I'm entering Pearl in the Pattern Review contest again this year.  Vote for her!

*Coming to a Walmart near you.

Review: Sewing Kit iPhone App

App Store

When I got my iPhone in December, I downloaded an App to help catalog and organize my sewing patterns.  It is called Sewing Kit by Vesta Software.  I haven't heard of any other sewing bloggers using it so I thought I would do a review.  Lately, I've been spending ALOT of time taking photos of my patterns and putting them on my phone.  Already over 125 patterns!  Below is the description from the iTunes App store and  I'll tell you a bit more about my experience with the program.  

Description (taken directly from the App Store site)

Sewing Kit is your new home for all of your sewing needs!

If you have ever been in a sewing store looking at patterns, but couldn’t remember if you already bought the one you like, or if the fabric you like will work with the project you are working on, then you will love Sewing Kit!

Now scan the pattern envelope while in the store to look it up, and add it if you don't have it!

Sewing Kit lets you search through all of your patterns, fabrics, projects, and people to make sure you are not buying something twice, or getting home and finding out you forgot to get something you really needed!

With Sewing Kit you can store and search on all of your:
- patterns
- fabrics
- projects
- measurements for people

All of these things, all in one place.

Features:

For Patterns, each entry has: company name, pattern number, size, brand, your own rating of it, where you are storing it, “unlimited” photos, “unlimited” notions, “unlimited” types of fabrics, and much more!!!

Also - for each pattern from Butterick, Kwik Sew, McCall’s, Neue Mode, Simplicity or Vogue, Sewing Kit will _try_ to download the envelope images (including the back panel) if they are available on the company’s public web site (Butterick usually requires a "B" as the first digit in the pattern number for this to work, "M" for McCalls, and "V" for Vogue). Not all images are available. Not all sites have the back panel image available. All images remain copyright of their respective web sites.

For Fabrics, each entry has: name, color, material, amount, been ironed?, been washed?, where you bought it, where it’s stored, “unlimited” photos, and more!

For Projects, each entry has: name, who its for, notes, “unlimited” photos, pattern being used, status, type, and more!

For People, each entry has: person’s name, “unlimited” photos, and “unlimited” measurements!

Sewing Kit is also highly customizable! You can manage your own list of Pattern Companies, Fabric Types, Notion Types, Ratings, Measurements, and more!

Sewing Kit has been localized into English, Spanish, and French! Let us know if there are other languages you would like to see Sewing Kit in.

SewingKitLT (our Lite version) is also available (for free!) to try out all of the features, before buying the full version.

Questions? Comments? Concerns? Ideas for more features?
Come by our site at http://www.vestasoftware.net or drop us a note at ideas@vestasoftware.net, or if you find bugs, bugs@vestasoftware.net

Please let us know what more we could be adding to make Sewing Kit even better!


These “unlimited” items are limited by the amount of free storage space on your device, not by Sewing Kit.

 Examples from the site (these photos are very accurate.  looks the same on my phone):

App Store

App Store

App Store

I like the app a lot, but it has a few bugs. Firstly, it crashes from time to time in the middle of uploading a pattern.  It used to do this more often, but now it is less frequent.  Also, it rarely has older OOP patterns or very new patterns in their database.  It almost never has the back of the envelope with the size and yardage information.  Usually only the tech drawings are included.  This means I have to take photos of every pattern front and back first.  I use a different app from the Camera App included on the phone, transfer the files to the Camera Roll, then insert them in the Sewing Kit App.  By taking the photos in the Sewing Kit App, the pictures tend to come out blurry.  The process is time consuming, but it works for me.  Oh, one more negative thing.  The customer service is pretty bad.  I emailed months ago about the freezing that occurs.  It was driving my crazy.  (It is much better now).  I got no response and there wasn't an update for months.  It worried me, but the program is working better now.

What I love about the App is that it is truly customizable.  I have added tons of vintage patterns to the App and have added the Pattern Company names (Hollywood, Advance, Marian Martin, etc) to the Pattern Company List.  Under Categories, I have included tons more (children, men's, accessories, etc) so when I search for something, I can find it by category.

I also like how I can put people measurements in the phone.  I have only done it for my mom, which has been very useful because she can never remember her measurements.  When we go pattern shopping, this comes in handy.

It has been very helpful when I shop for fabric too. I don't have to bring patterns with me.  This is great for the delicate vintage patterns and saves room in my purse.

Right now the price is $4.99.  I think I paid almost $10, and that is really disappointing.  It is worth the 5 bucks, if you are willing to spend HOURS cataloging your patterns.  I don't know if I will do the same with my fabric.


Even with the bugs, I think I would recommend it.

Does anyone else use this App or another one like it?  How is it?  Do you like it?

Vintage Hat Pattern Vogue 6121

My mom and I found this cute 1960's head scarf pattern at the flea market today.  It was such a good deal that we didn't even bother to open it up to check for all the pieces and instructions.  Well, we should have because the instructions are missing :( Views A and B seam pretty self explanatory from the pattern pieces, but Views C and D confuse me.  I think I could figure it out, but my mom could not and she was hoping to make a hat/scarf today :)  Bummer, huh?

Does anyone have a copy of this pattern and could scan the instructions for me? I'd be forever grateful and the good karma fairies will make a visit I'm sure :)  The wonderful pattern site Blue Gardenia has a copy of the pattern in mint condition, but it is too pricey for me.  

I also got this sweet children's book "Love is a Special Way of Feeling"

I love the illustrations in it

Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend.  It's back to sketching for me..... :(

The Fabric Haul (Picture Heavy)

Thanks to everyone who commented here and on Sew Retro about the stinky fabric.  We washed the last few batches of fabric with vinegar, but the smell didn't come out completely.  I think I'm going to have to wash it again and try laying out small batches in the sun.  I do not have a clothesline, but maybe I'll have to rig one up in the backyard.  We are too lazy to wash the fabric again and lay in the sun, so I think we are going to make a "stinky bin" and put all the fabric in there.  When it is time to use it, I'll just wash it again.

Now to the fabric! I did burn tests for almost every piece of fabric and we did really well!  Cottons, SILKS, and a wool! I think some of the cottons could be rayon, but there is no real way to tell unless I put them under a microscope.  Too much work!

I love the little birdies embroidered on the yellow cotton.  I want a little house so I can make curtains out of fabric.  My mom likes the border print floral.  I think it would make a great little vintage sundress or better yet, a pretty skirt!

The rose print is adorable, but I LOVE the silk and the sheer embroidered cotton.  I think they were meant to be used together.  The blue fabric pictured is interesting, but I can't figure out what to do with it.  Probably a muslin.

A really pretty, soft wool plaid and a cotton olive green corduroy.  There is just enough plaid for a skirt and tons of the cord.  I think I want a cord skirt as well.

BEAUTIFUL SILKS from China.  They were in a paper package with Chinese written on it.  The inhabitants of the estate were big travelers.

A gorgeous, funky polished cotton!  I love the sheen. Weird, but cool! I don't know if I would ever wear it, but its nice to have.

LOVE the cotton plaid!

A fun stripe and a red silk my mom has claimed.  I'm not a huge fan, so I'm cool with it :)

Another bundle I just didn't want to photograph. The yellow dotted swiss is best piece of fabric in the bundle! Oh, and there were two rather hefty tricots in nude.  I'll definitely use them to line knit!

Super fun fish print! I'm going to use this one day.  Even though it is crazy.

Cutest fabric from the lot! I hope I get the diamond fabric before my mom does :) hehe.  We think the printed gingham would make a  great apron.

 The patterns were $5 each which is usually a lot for me, but I didn't have anything like them and they were in my size.

I had to post this too.  My mom got this travel kit for $3.  It has never been used, and I think it's just adorable. 

We also bought some cute trims, 2 pairs of funky shoes, interesting costume jewelry, and a beautiful necklace gold and amethyst from the turn of the century 1900 (not 2000). I get it at Christmas.  :)  Oh, and a gorgeous custom sheath dress and coat made for lady of the house.  It is white and beautifully embroidered in black.  The embroidery is also cut out.  I'll have to take pictures and share some of the details.  My favorite part is the quilted coat lining and the hidden pocket.  I get the dress and my mom gets the coat :)

My mom paid for everything, so thanks Mom!

Name that Dress Giveaway Winner!

Thanks to everyone who participated in the "Name that Dress" Giveaway contest.  It was very entertaining for me.  By the way, surprisingly I got an A on the dress.  I know, totally didn't deserve it.  I don't think she graded on whether it was a good design or not.  I got some points taken off for side seam balance and the fact that I didn't add elastic to stabilize the bodice around the neckline.  Frankly, I got annoyed and decided not to do it even though I know I was supposed to.  

There were a few really funny name suggestions.  My favorite was Lady Be Good's suggestion of "Macrape, "but she didn't want the pattern.  I also enjoyed "Revenge of the Turds" by Thorup. But, in the end, I chose:

livebird!!! with the suggestion of Muck-rame.   The name is cute, and I think captures the essence of my icky, icky dress.

Livebird, please email me at:   rofishman gmail *dot* com with your address and I will get the pattern out to you sometime next week :)  You have until next Thursday, Aug. 18th at 6pm PST to claim your pattern.  

Thanks again everyone who participated and for your words of encouragement.  

Also, a big shout-out to my newest followers:

Jessi

Two Wild Roses, bloggers and antique shop owners in Orange, CA

Karen de Vries

Kitty Meow

Texan, she monograms goat sweaters!!!!!

christina

Making Changes of Seams so Simple

Cheryl

Here's a funny picture of Pearl taken a long time ago that I forgot I had.  I hope I haven't posted it before:

Macrame-d in HELL! Giveaway...

Did you ever watch In Living Color?

This was just one of those projects... When you sew for yourself, you can just decide the project you are working on is a wadder and give up.  Or start over.  I couldn't do that no matter how much I wanted to (well I could have and taken an F, but I'm not that kind of person).  I did my best with the time that I had and made it work.  I really hate my dress.  I didn't like designing it (I'm not proud).  I didn't like redesigning it (still not proud).  Making the pattern was torture (only because I didn't like what I was making the pattern for).  I hated the macrame and I really hated sewing the damn thing.  I really despise sewing something I'm not proud of.  The fabric was surprisingly easy to work with.  My sewing machine didn't even have a problem with the knit.

My in-class critique went better than expected, but I don't think I'm going to get a good grade (which means I'll probably get a "B."  A "B" is a bad grade in my book....don't hate me).  I got decent comments from the teacher and the students which was really weird to me because other than being a different color, the dress is basically the same as the first one I turned in, but with ugly hemp macrame attached to it.

I'm really excited for the next draping project though, a bustier inspired by Valentino.

So here are pictures of "Macrame-d in Hell" Oh, they are on my mom's dress form, so the fit is a little off.   I was too upset in class to take a picture of the dress on the Alva form.  The dress hung (sp?) a little better on the school form so it wasn't a complete mess:

Imagine the macrame being tacked down across the back at a diagonal to the back neckline.
I had to do that by hand in class. 

My mom came up with the name "Macrame-made in Heaven (or Hell)"  I changed it to what you see on the title of this post.

I also came up with:

• Poop Brown Hippy Couture (Hippies, do not be offended. I love hippies.)
• Poopalicious

Don't judge, I'm tired....


My challenge for you readers is to come up with a better or equally good name (I kind of like "Macrame-d in Hell").  Any name.  Clever/Funny is good.  It doesn't haaave to be negative....

The best name will get this pattern that was never claimed in the follower giveaway I hosted a while back:

Here are the rules:

1. Anyone can enter, International too.  Just leave a comment with a name for my dress (don't worry, I won't be offended).
2. Contest ends Friday August 12th at 6pm PST. 
3. I will choose (with the help of the Boyfriend and my family) my favorite name suggestion....so make them good.  
4. The winner will have 4 days from the announcement to claim their prize.  I will pick another winner, if they do not claim the pattern.  
5. If it's waaay offensive (yes, I know I said I won't be offended) I will delete the comment.  
6. Also, only comment if you really, really want the pattern for yourself (please don't resell). :(  If you don't want the pattern, but want to name the dress, just say so. I will not pick you as the pattern winner.  

And the winner is...

FAYE LEWIS!!!

You've won the pattern!

Please email me at rofishman gmail com with your address and I will get the pattern to you ASAP!

Congrats to Faye and thanks to everyone for participating.  I'll have more pattern giveaways periodically through the quarter.  

The Boyfriend is in town now (hooray!) so I won't be sewing and probably not much blogging either.  Still need to take pictures of the dirdl.

I wanna give a shout out to Melissa of Fehr Trade for hosting a Lekala pattern giveaway! I won 2 credits and plan to download 2 patterns very soon! These are the patterns I am considering:

I know I will wear the top and skirt more than the dress, so I'm leaning toward those patterns.  What do you think?

Half Way Done Celebration Giveaway!

Hi Everyone!

Grades have been posted for this past quarter and I'm half way through school!  I'm really excited, but oh so tired.  Unlike other Professional Designation students (those who already have a college degree), I decided to spread my course work out 6 quarters, instead of 5.  I'm a little jealous of my fellow classmates who are more than 1/2 way through the program, but in doing it this way, I have been able to focus more on my studies, I haven't stressed as much, and I'm able to use the FIDM resources an extra quarter.

Anyways, back to the real reason for this post.  A Giveaway! The last giveaway I had was a success, but some readers didn't claim their patterns :(  I decided to hold on to them and give them away at a later date.  Well, today is the day!

I'm giving away this lovely pattern:

If you recall, it is a size 14, Bust 34.  The envelope is torn, (so sad) but the pattern inside is in good shape.  I just love the little bow in front!  

Here are the rules:

1) Anyone can enter, international readers as well.  (just be aware that I will choose the least expensive shipping method, so the pattern may take a while to get there.)

2) There are 2 ways to enter:

           a) Leave a comment saying you would like to be entered.  For fun, let me know what sewing or    crafting you have planned for the summer?

           b)  Link this post to your blog and share with your readers!  Then leave another comment on my blog letting me know you linked to this post.  (Two entries!)

3)  Giveaway closes on Sunday, June 26th at 8pm PST.  I will use the random # generator to pick the winner.  

That's all!  Good luck!

Vintage Vogue Pattern Score

This past weekend I scored two Designer Vintage Vogue Patterns:


This funky Valentino from 1970:

And a Chester Weinberg Vogue Americana from 1969:

They are both in great shape and complete and I want to re-sell them.  My mom and I have been accumulating a huge vintage pattern stash, but have been procrastinating getting them online to sell.  Also, we are both pack rats so its really difficult to give them up!


I kind of want to keep the Valentino pattern....sigh...


On the sewing front, I have completed another Victoria Jones Hawaiian shirt for my dad except for the buttons and button holes.  I will be finishing it today and taking pictures.  I'm also going to start drafting a dirdl skirt for myself which should be very easy, quick, and rewarding.  I really need solid color skirts. I also have to alter a dress I made for my Pattern Drafting class final.  It fits my sister pretty well and just needs to be taken in at the shoulders.  Also have to make her a couple of shirts for her birthday.

Tomorrow I am meeting up with one of my classmates to work on our personal slopers.  The first time around my measurements were not taken very accurately so I need to start from scratch.

I'll post some pics as soon as I can!

Follower Appreciation Vintage Pattern Giveaway! (Update)

Hi Everyone! I've decided to add 2 more patterns to the loot. (The skirt patterns are lame, I know, so I thought I would add these instead).


For rules, see the actual giveaway post.  If you want either of these patterns, let me know on the original posting.  I'll also edit that post to include these two patterns.

1990 Hammer Pants! Size 6, 8.

1971 Bell Bottoms, Skirt, and Bolero.  Pattern a little worn, but I'm pretty sure everything is there! 

Remember:

1) You have to be a follower 

2) Giveaway ends on Tuesday!

Follower Appreciation Vintage Pattern Giveaway!

Hello Everyone!  I've reached 75 Followers so I'm giving away some vintage patterns!

Here's the loot:

1960's ? Butterick Blouse.  Bust 34 Size 14.  I love the bow!

A-Line Skirt!  I have 2, one is Waist Size 30 (above) and one Size 26.  Strangely both are missing the waistband, but it is just a rectangle.  Very easy to draft.

Funky Dress.  Bust Size 34, Size 12.  I almost kept this one for me.

1980's Multi-size Burda Dress.  With the right fabric and  accessories this could be very cute!

Laura Ashley Dress.  Bust 34, Size 12.  Easy to grade I think.

Who doesn't need a leotard.  I threw this one in for fun.  Bust 36, Size 14.

Pretty Asian-inspired dress.  Again, Bust 34, Size 12.  I have a lot this size.  

Edit:
Two more patterns!

Original 1990 Hammer Pants. Size 6, 8.

1971 Bell Bottoms, Skirt, and Bolero. Size 9/10. Bust 30 1/2

The Rules are:

1) You have to be a Follower (you can be a brand new follower, too!)  This is a Follower Appreciation Giveaway, but if you click that little "Follow" button and then leave a comment, you're entered!

2)  I can only ship to to N. America.  I'm a poor college student and international postage rates can be crazy.  If you know otherwise, let me know and I'll ship internationally in the future.

3)  Leave a comment.  I need name ideas for my new dress form, so share a couple names with me.  Oh, and more importantly, which 3 patterns do you like?  I'm giving away 2 per person for a total of 4 winners!  That is, if I get enough comments... I'll try to get you the ones you want :)

That's it!  Comment by Tuesday May 24th at 6:00 PM Pacific Time.

If you have any questions just comment or email me.

Thanks Followers!