Thursday, June 30, 2011

Dare to Dirndl?

I did (and finally posted the pictures)!

Making a sloper is slow and arduous, so I decided to draft something easy.  Plus I need more skirts.  More solid colored skirts, really.

A few days after the end of the quarter, I ventured back into Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition) to draft up a dirndl with basic lapped waistband.  Yes, I know a dirndl is just a gathered rectangle skirt, but did you know that for a better fit, you should drop the waistline 1/4" at CB and gradually taper back to the correct side seam length?  Sounds counter intuitive, doesn't it!?  Why would you want to shorted the back piece at the CB?  There's a BOOTY back there!  Well, I learned that the reason for doing so is that your waistline actually does curve down a bit at the small of your back.  When you drape on a form, or draft patterns, you really start to notice these things.  Unless you have an extra ample booty, drop that waistline seam down 1/4" and the skirt will hang nicely and evenly all the way around the hemline!

This is how I drafted my skirt (per Mrs. Armstrong's instructions):

1)  Measure waistline (make sure it is comfortable and there is a bit of ease!) Let's say 26" (I realized that my waist is bigger now, sad!).

2) I chose a 2.5 to 1 gathering ratio so the total skirt width is 65".  At the time I was thinking about adding inseam pockets, but got too lazy.  (I wish I added them!)  I still opted for side seams though.  So I took 65" and divided it in 2.  The front panel is 32.5" and the back panels will be 16.25" each.  I wanted the zipper at center back.  Because of such a large ratio, I ended up fudging the numbers slightly and went with 32" and 16".  I also just assumed 1/2" seam allowance and did not add extra.  What's the point, right?

3) The length I chose was 20": 1/2" SA for the waistline, and a 3" hem.

4) The waistband length or circumference is your waist measurement (26") plus 1" extension, plus 1/2" SA on either side.  A total length of 28".  For the width, I chose 1.5" finished.   To do that, my width was 3" (1.5" x 2) plus 1/2" SA on the top and bottom for a total width of 4".

That's it! Those are your pieces.   Oh, and like I mentioned before, shave off that 1/4" at the CB of both back panels and gradually taper back to the 20" length at the SS.

More pictures of the dirndl:

I love the trim!  I was going to add a dainty crocheted lace trim, but my mom found this one instead.  I think its perfect!
The hem... I sewed a 3" invisible hem and then sewed the trim to the bottom. 
The waistband I topstitched the waistband down from the right side and caught the trim inside just above the gathers.

And this cute black and white vintage button finishes it off!

I really, really do recommend this book!  Well worth the price.

Finally, thanks to Amanda, Jeanettec, Fabiana, Christina, Tiffany Reagan, and Becca!  I know Tiffany Reagan and Becca both have blogs too, but I'm having trouble finding them.  Both are awesome contributors on Sew Retro!

Monday, June 27, 2011

And the winner is...

You've won the pattern!

Please email me at rofishman gmail com with your address and I will get the pattern to you ASAP!

Congrats to Faye and thanks to everyone for participating.  I'll have more pattern giveaways periodically through the quarter.  

The Boyfriend is in town now (hooray!) so I won't be sewing and probably not much blogging either.  Still need to take pictures of the dirdl.

I wanna give a shout out to Melissa of Fehr Trade for hosting a Lekala pattern giveaway! I won 2 credits and plan to download 2 patterns very soon! These are the patterns I am considering:

I know I will wear the top and skirt more than the dress, so I'm leaning toward those patterns.  What do you think?

Friday, June 24, 2011

Name that Sewing Machine?

Nine months ago my mom and I went to a church rummage sale and brought home two lovely vintage sewing machines, but we know nothing about them!  They were just too pretty to pass up.

The first is a Model DST Deluxe Streamliner straight-stitch machine, made by Matsushita in Japan:

Here's the original manual.  It does not even name the machine, the date, or anything about the manufacturer:

It even came with a universal darner:

 The second machine is a Queen? zigzag machine made by the Speedmaster Sewing Machine Corp. in Holland.  There is even less info on this machine.  I couldn't find anything like it online.  Actually, I can't find anything on either machine online.

Both machines work, just a little dirty and need some T.L.C.  I haven't used either one since I got them!  The Queen machine needs a new bobbin winder wheel because it is worn down and it doesn't make contact well with the balance wheel when you push down on the "PUSH" lever.  

If ANYONE can give me some info on these machines it would be greatly appreciated.  Any and all comments are welcome.  I really would like to know what I have.  Any resources you can point me toward?  Does anyone have one of these machines or know how much the are worth?

Thanks Readers!

On a sewing note, I finished the dirdl and have a post 1/2 written.  Just need the Boyfriend to take pictures! He'll be here tomorrow! Hooray!  Also have a Sorbetto 1/2 sewn.  Maybe I'll get it finished tomorrow and I can cut out the top of V1247.  

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

The Happy Father's Day/Birthday Shirt!

I finished my dad's Hawaiian-style shirt yesterday, just in time for his trip to Hawaii.  I'm not going this year....Staying home to babysit the dogs.

I used this pattern again:

This time around I used a strange cotton fabric.  I say strange because it is coarser than gauze, but wrinkles like it.  The yarns are loosely woven and pretty thick, visible to the naked eye.  It is printed with some unbleachable black pigment, which was really good news as I had some laundry issues with the fabric.  When I bought it ($1/yd swapmeet find, of course) we also purchased some beautiful cotton sateens.  I decided since they were all light in color, I would wash them together.  BIG MISTAKE! One of the fabric pieces was cheap-o and bled its entire printed design onto everything else.  My dad's shirt material had light blue splotches all over it.  I washed it multiple times then decided to do a bleach test on a scrap of fabric.  It worked, the fabric was washed again with bleach, and it came out all shiny and new! Very soft too!

I was really busy with the last few weeks of school so I did not have time to make the shirt before his birthday.  Oh well, I had it finished a few days after Father's Day.  Enough of my's the shirt:

 Oops.  Looks like my dad forgot to button the bottom button.  I made the same fitting adjustments as I did with the first.  I did not do the "burrito roll" method, but opted to follow the directions.  I only got confused by one part, the first step of attaching the the yoke facing.  The pictures were a little unclear, but I managed to put it together correctly.  I just recommend reading very carefully.

My dad being a goof ball:

And showing his muscles (He didn't have time to camera battery died at the beginning of the photoshoot and we were rushed).

I am pleased with the shirt and I think my dad likes it too.  I'm happy I followed the directions because  hand-sewing the yoke facing was really relaxing.

My dirdl is almost done.  Not loving, it but it was fast and really cheap! (Like $1.25 to make). I look too hippy in it, and I don't have any hips!  I think I'm going to make myself something else before I start on my sister's Michael Starr knock-off tops again. They are boring.  I want to make V1247.  I already have the fabric for the top and skirt picked out.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Half Way Done Celebration Giveaway!

Hi Everyone!

Grades have been posted for this past quarter and I'm half way through school!  I'm really excited, but oh so tired.  Unlike other Professional Designation students (those who already have a college degree), I decided to spread my course work out 6 quarters, instead of 5.  I'm a little jealous of my fellow classmates who are more than 1/2 way through the program, but in doing it this way, I have been able to focus more on my studies, I haven't stressed as much, and I'm able to use the FIDM resources an extra quarter.

Anyways, back to the real reason for this post.  A Giveaway! The last giveaway I had was a success, but some readers didn't claim their patterns :(  I decided to hold on to them and give them away at a later date.  Well, today is the day!

I'm giving away this lovely pattern:

If you recall, it is a size 14, Bust 34.  The envelope is torn, (so sad) but the pattern inside is in good shape.  I just love the little bow in front!  

Here are the rules:

1) Anyone can enter, international readers as well.  (just be aware that I will choose the least expensive shipping method, so the pattern may take a while to get there.)

2) There are 2 ways to enter:
           a) Leave a comment saying you would like to be entered.  For fun, let me know what sewing or    crafting you have planned for the summer?
           b)  Link this post to your blog and share with your readers!  Then leave another comment on my blog letting me know you linked to this post.  (Two entries!)

3)  Giveaway closes on Sunday, June 26th at 8pm PST.  I will use the random # generator to pick the winner.  

That's all!  Good luck!

Vintage Vogue Pattern Score

This past weekend I scored two Designer Vintage Vogue Patterns:

This funky Valentino from 1970:

And a Chester Weinberg Vogue Americana from 1969:

They are both in great shape and complete and I want to re-sell them.  My mom and I have been accumulating a huge vintage pattern stash, but have been procrastinating getting them online to sell.  Also, we are both pack rats so its really difficult to give them up!

I kind of want to keep the Valentino pattern....sigh...

On the sewing front, I have completed another Victoria Jones Hawaiian shirt for my dad except for the buttons and button holes.  I will be finishing it today and taking pictures.  I'm also going to start drafting a dirdl skirt for myself which should be very easy, quick, and rewarding.  I really need solid color skirts. I also have to alter a dress I made for my Pattern Drafting class final.  It fits my sister pretty well and just needs to be taken in at the shoulders.  Also have to make her a couple of shirts for her birthday.

Tomorrow I am meeting up with one of my classmates to work on our personal slopers.  The first time around my measurements were not taken very accurately so I need to start from scratch.

I'll post some pics as soon as I can!

Sunday, June 19, 2011

A Case of the Uglies...

A few weeks ago for my pattern drafting class, we each had draft a simple jacket/blouse thingie with with front and back bodice gathered into a yoke and the vertical darts left un-sewn for flare.  Sort of a swing coat.  We had the option to draft a bell sleeve, puff sleeve with barrel cuff, or a leg o' mutton sleeve.  Also had the option to do a peter pan collar or a mandarin collar.  We actually drafted all the versions, but only seweed up one...thank goodness...

I decided to pick the ugliest version, just for giggles because 1) I really didn't design it and 2) It was going to be tossed at the end of the quarter.

Here it is:

sorry, creepy eyes!

Al, these are for you...


Happy Father's Day to my dad and other dads out there.

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Tip for Beginners: Mini Tutorial!

This is one of those tips that I thought I would share because when I started sewing, this never occurred to me, but it seems like second nature now.

When hemming, especially in the round in a small space,  after pressing up the hem, flip the garment right sides out and sew in the circle of fabric.  This really helps you see what you are sewing better, and prevents you from accidentally sewing through the other layer of fabric.

Do this:

Not this:

Because this will happen:

Hope this helps some newbies out there!

Friday, June 17, 2011

Bad Blogger

I know, I know! I haven't been around, but I have been reading and commenting!  School FINALLY ended and I have a 3 week vacation.  Woohoo! The last two weeks were a little rough, but I survived and am pretty sure I did really well :)

To catch up, remember when I said I made this shirt:

Well here is my version:

Not the best, not the worst.  I have nothing to wear with it!  This is the best I could come up with and it needs a belt.  I lack accessories.  I made the short version, because I am on the shorter side, and the tunic was way to long and looked awkward when I tissue fit it.  

I think the fit is pretty good.   I added shoulder darts for a little more room in the back for my prominent shoulder blades/beginning of a hunch back.  I also did a significantly large sloping shoulder adjustment.  

My mom bought me these really pretty glass buttons to go with the shirt at an expensive little designer fabric boutique in Newport Beach.  Beautiful fabrics well out of my price range. I have seen similar designers on Emma One Sock or Gorgeous Fabrics for a fraction of the cost.    The buttons were expensive, but I think the shirt is a lot prettier with them.  The chambray was $3 at a rummage sale for over 3 yards. So the price balanced out in the end.  

Tried to get a detailed shot of the buttons....The placket is actually straight and so is the topstitching.  Its not nearly as wiggly as the picture portrays.  

Is it a keeper, or a wadder?  I'm definitely keeping the buttons!

Oh, and I mentioned I found my first doll I ever made....Here is the ugly little thing:

I  think the doll was part of a pantyhose doll kit. I used a pair of my mom's old panty hose, some random scraps of fabric that must have been in the kit, the ugly fuzzy hair, and barbie shoes that I sewed through.  I remember the plastic was very hard to get the needle through.  I believe I made this doll after seeing much better versions at a doll show.  I was obsessed with Ren and Stimpy, hence the ugly mole.  The doll is now in the trash now that I have a picture.  It was really too hideous to keep, but I thought I would document probably my first sewing experiment (at least that I can remember).  

I'm going to try to keep posting throughout the weekend! Lots of stuff to share. 

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Just a Boring Post

School's been rough the last week, so nothing really to post.  I have pictures of a top I made using this pattern that just need to be uploaded:

I also took a picture of the monstrosity of a "jacket" that I made for pattern drafting.  It's well made, just ugly!  The pictures are for Al...

Last weekend, we found out the family storage unit was broken into (again!) and my parents lost pretty much everything in there and I lost about 1/2 my childhood toys/memories.  They left me (among other things I'm so thankful I still have) this silly little doll I made when I was about 9 I think.  I took a picture of it, but it too isn't uploaded yet.

What else, what else?  I've been working on slopers for school and they have been killing me!  They have to be exact and they aren't.  It is so frustrating because I've made them at least 4-5 times!  If they were just for me, I wouldn't stress so much!  I have to have them done by Friday.  On top of that we have to design a dress, draw flats and a fashion figure for it, draft the pattern and sew it up.  Oh, and 12 flats in Illustrator! and Finals!  

Okay, this was me procrastinating....

And now thanks to my newest followers!

Thanks Ladies!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Vintage? 1980's Blouse

If the 1980's are considered vintage, does that mean that I'm vintage too???

About a month ago, my mom and I went to church rummage sale.  This is the second time I've been to it and last time we scored 2 vintage sewing machines (which I have yet to post!!!)  This time around we got some fun fabric, a vintage sheet, some notions (a pointer press, grommet setter, etc) and patterns for a nickel each.  Found some really fun patterns including this one:

I think my mom found it, but it was in my size (sort of) so I nabbed it.  I was drawn to it because it resembles my favorite outfit when I was in pre-school, a white jumper (shorts attached to the top).  I remember it had thin red, blue and yellow vertical stripes and it buttoned at the shoulder.  I think the buttons were pieces of fruit!  I loved that thing, but it was a pain to use the restroom.  Definitely a challenge for a 5 year old.

Then a couple weeks ago I went to JoAnn's for some patterns and found a blue and white stripe poly charmeuse!  A match made in heaven!

So here's the top:

I decided that since I was working with poly charmeuse for the first time, I would not do the buttons at the shoulder.  I'm surprised I had very little trouble working with the fabric.  It did not press well though and shredded like crazy.   I sewed french seams throughout and lengthened the pattern by 1".  I should have widened it in the hips a little, but it fits, just a little snug.  I want to make a white skirt now to go with it.  Still haven't decided on whether or not I will put the pocket on.  What do you think? Does it need it?