Purple Coat Pictures and a Review!

I found a cord to transfer photos from my camera! It's not my cord, but it works!

I made a few mistakes. but I'm not telling.  Let me know if you notice the glaring one.  I was so upset I almost cried.  

So things I would do differently if and when I make another coat/jacket:

• Interface the collar better and maybe even tailor it.  It wrinkles badly, and it makes me sad. 
• Interface the hemline of the coat
• Interface the tie.  It did not call for it, but it would be nice if it had more body.  
• Use Polar fleece instead of hair canvas to set in the sleeves.  I used a method I found online and it worked well, but left the wrinkly marks of the curling hair canvas inside the sleeve. Because the self-fabric is not very thick or lofty, I can see the canvas rippling at the sleeve cap. 

Things I'm happy with:

• I'm pretty happy with the fit.  It fits as well as other coats I own, so yay!
• I love the color.  I feel very unique.
• The retro look.  Peter pan collars are in for Fall (I just spent 3 hrs. photocopying international magazines at my new internship and I saw a whole lot of peter pan collars)
• The covered buttons! These are my favorite (and the sleeve bands).  Making the buttons was so easy.  I used 1 1/8" buttons because that is all I had. I barely had enough and used two different vintage brands. I have a huge stash of buttons to cover I got for $3 at a flea market.
• My top-stitching is pretty amazing!  Not gonna lie...
• 
  

 

The front. Oh I love the buttons!

The side, with the belt tied in back.  

The back.

The 3/4 view. I love the pockets too!

Speaking of pockets....

So exciting.....

Sleeve bands, and buttons!

The lining!  It wasn't difficult to figure out at all!  

Pattern Description:

McCall's Misses coat/jacket pattern with various lengths, collars, and sleeves. I made view A but with added sleeve bands.  

Pattern Sizing:

8-14 I made a size 8 with some modifications. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yup, pretty much. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very, very easy.  I did mess up the collar though.  I think I interfaced the wrong piece and then put it on backwards so it folds left over right instead of right over left.  Oops. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It was very easy to fit.  My first muslin of M6246 was AWFUL!  I switched patterns as a result.  

Fabric Used:

A wool woven coating or suiting.  It is kind of in between weights. I got it at the LA Garment District.  The poly lining is from Jo-Anns.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added the sleeve bands.  The coat folds over left over right like a man's jacket.  Oops.  I took the CB in an extra 1/2" total from the notch and then blended back to zero.  I needed the ease in the upper back, but the lower back needed some fitting.  Also placed the buttons where I wanted them, not quite according to the pattern.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yup.  One day I will make the the other collar version.  I have some RTW trenches that I love, so I probably won't need a new coat any time soon.  

I highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion:

In the future, I would interface the collar better.  It is wrinkling annoyingly, but everyone I've asked says it looks fine. I'm just being critical.  Also, I would interface the bottom 4 inches of the hem.  It needs some more stability.  

 More pics...The Boyfriend, who is A-ma-zing, took so many!

My First Fall Project: M5525 Purple Pea Coat

Hooray!  I finished my coat yesterday, a day before school started!  Yes, FIDM classes have started again.  Boo hoo.


I didn't take pictures as I went along because there are so many great step-by-step pictures  on the web on how to make a coat and I am no expert.  This was my first, and I'm pretty proud of it.  There were a few minor hiccups along the way.


I really wanted to make a ton of things on my break,  but only managed to make my sister a knit t-shirt for her birthday last June ( forgot to take pictures of her in it) and hemmed a pair of The Boyfriend's jeans.  And the coat of course.  I still owe my sister a dress and have to hem more pants.

Including the 2 muslins, the coat took about a week.  I didn't work on it every day and I took FOR-E-VER cutting out the coat.  That took a couple of days.  Then I sewed the lining in a night.  It took 2 more days to put together the coat.  Last night I finished the coat by making self-fabric covered buttons using vintage button kits, buttonholes and sewing on the buttons.

The Boyfriend took pictures today, but I CAN'T FIND THE CORD THAT TRANSFERS PICTURES FROM MY CAMERA TO MY COMPUTER.  It disappeared like yesterday!  UGG.  So I can't show you pictures just yet!


I'm really bummed out, but when I find the cord I'll post ASAP.

Sorry for the picture-less post.  


Thanks to Nicole A for becoming my newest Blogger Follower.  Her blog is here. :)

Pearl in Pants!

Not so Fugly Muslin : M5525

I ditched the first jacket/coat pattern I was attempting.  I'm sure if I cut a smaller size it would not have looked so bad, but the sleeves were awful.  Such a weird 80's style that was totally unflattering.  Last night I cut out M5525. I cut view A with the overlapping peter pan collar.  I decided to cut a size 8 at the bust and graded to a 12 at the hips because in my first muslin of the other pattern, the 12 at the hips fit fine.  I definitely needed the ease there.  Here are the results:

I think the front fits pretty darn good.  The apex points are where they should be and so is the waist.

 I'm concerned a little about how the front is rising up in this picture.  The two front pieces are shorter as per the instructions, but I may need a FBA.  What do you all think? The sleeves are set in rather quickly and poorly so I know they will look better in the final.

And the back...Its better than the first time around, but I wasn't happy.  I need the ease over my shoulder blades but not from the mid back down.  Also I think shoulder pads would help.  I took in the CB seam 1/4" (for a 1/2" total from the mid back and then I blended back out to zero in the picture below this one. 

Unfortunately, I didn't press if before my photographer took the picture. A few minutes later she left and I had to attempt taking pictures of myself.

Here's one...It's not all that bad!  I think I might just go with it!

I also noticed that the left side is frumpier than the right.  I think it has to do with how I set in the sleeves.  I set in the left first by pin-easing very, very quickly.  Lots of puckers, but it went in...The right was done by crimping.  Much better and even quicker!  

If you have any advice, please let me know :) I'm thinking of just going for it and cutting into my purple wool!  Aww, so scary! My first attempt at a jacket!  I figure, the coat will be belted and be crumply (I made this word up) anyways.  

I'll keep you all posted on my next step.  

Thanks to my newest followers Temporary Cat and Tifia Gabrielle!

A Fugly Muslin M6246

I started working on a muslin for this jacket.  I'm making view B, the pink jacket in the corner.  

For the muslin I used a winter white wool I bought at a Goodwill for $3.00.  I think there was about 5 yards and I used 1.5 for the muslin.  :)  

I measured a jacket that fits me well and flat pattern measured.  I decided a size 12 would be a good starting point, but I think its huge, especially in the back.  I also HATE the sleeves.  The darts are just weird.  I have very sloping shoulders and did not do an adjustment because the princess seam to the armhole was making things extra complicated. I did put in a temporary 1/4" should pad, which didn't do much.  Since I've been drafting my own patterns for school, I discovered I hate seam allowance.  I think I'll start making Burda patterns.  It is so much easier to manipulate the pattern before the seam allowance is added.   

I need help! The princess seams are in the wrong place, the body is huge, the sleeves are huge, the back looks awful... How should I adjust this muslin?  I'm thinking I should start again with a 10, but I'm not even liking the sleeves. I'd also need to shorten the pattern.  I might just switch to this pattern:

M5525

At least this jacket/coat has reviews on PR. Well, everyone and their mother has made it so I assume its a good pattern.  What do you think?

To Do List

My sewing queue is very long right now and I do not have the time to make everything I want. I am very very slow.  Everything seems to take hours upon hours to complete.  I get very distracted by the T.V. or the internet or cleaning or Pearl.

I am taking another fitting class  with some friends (Hi Julie and Barbara!) Julie and I are making the same sheath dress. It's McCall's 5753.  I am making the v-neck sleeveless version to get a good fit.  I started with a size 10 and graded to a 12 at the hips (really my low butt and thigh area.  I have no hips!)  I also took a wedge from the neckline which worked great at preventing gaposis.  My instructor told me not to do a sloping shoulder adj. yet, but looking at the muslin, I definitely need one.  I knew it!  I also cut between the 10 and 12 at the waist line to get some ease, but that was a bad idea.  It is too big.  I have no idea how the back fits because I cant pin it up myself.  I need to get the Boyfriend to  help.  I also need to take about 1in. from the bodice length.  So many adjustments!

 

Before the Saturday I will hopefully get to measure and make a muslin of McCall's 5661:

I made the muslin and I think it fits!

I'm going to be making the red.  It is very fitted and I think it will be a great jumping off point for redrafting to make other styles.  It buttons up the back which is very retro.  I love that detail.

I also have this Simplicity 2446 cut out in a wearable muslin fabric:

 And have 1/2 of this dress made.  I F'ed up the zipper.  I'm going to take it out and see if it fits without.  I love the dress and hopefully it will all work. It will go really well with my denim jacket.

And finally I want to make these shorts in a light khaki.  The ones with the pleats and the cuffs (View E).

And a vintage blouse and more dresses and.....

Cynthia Rowley 2443 Jacket!

Finally posting clothing I made! I made this jacket sometime in Feb/March and finally got to taking a picture of it over Memorial Day weekend. The Boyfriend kindly took pictures of 3 different pieces of clothing and my quilted projects and I in turn went on a bazillion mile bike ride with him AND kicked the soccer ball around...twice. I am actually really having fun riding Doris (my bike) and playing soccer though I am really out of shape. The Boyfriend is teaching me all these cool things and I am kicking less like a 5 year old girl. My mother made fun of me when I told her I was learning how to play soccer because when I was 5 or 6 she signed me up for soccer, bought me the cleats, the shin guards, the ball, etc. and after my first practice I quit because the shin guards itched. I still stand by my decision. Those things itched like hell.

Okay on to the jacket! Here is my review from PR:

Pattern Description:

Cynthia Rowley Collection. Misses' dress sewing pattern with knit bodice and jacket or vest. I made the jacket.

Pattern Sizing:

6-8-10-12-14 I used the 10.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Mostly, except for the sleeves, but that was my fault.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Easy except for the bottom sleeve band and placket on the sleeves. I had a difficult time figuring that one out.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked the casual look of the jacket. I thought it would look nice over printed dresses and skirts. I found the jacket on C.R.'s website (I think) made in leather for over $300. That made me happy

Fabric Used:

A denim much too heavy for this pattern, for the facings I used left-over Anna Marie Horner voile.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did my normal 1/2" sloping shoulder adjustment. Because there is so much ease in the jacket I didn't have to worry about it fitting around my bust. I flat-felled all the seams that I could (side, shoulder, back). For the pockets I lined them with the voile using the method in the "Complete Guide to Sewing." It was easier than dealing with pressing the denim seam allowances in on the pockets. (I hope this makes sense). THe fabric was stiffer than I liked but I had a lot left over from a previous project and it was $1/yd. For the placket and sleeve band I made some mistakes and had to fix them creatively. I accidently sewed the bottom band on wrong and already trimmed my shreddy denim. I had to unpick and re-sew, but that left me with no place to put my D-rings. I attached a bit of grosgrain ribbon to loop around my D-rings. This caused the band to not be as tight as it should and the sleeves can't be bunched up around my upper arm. Also the denim was so stiff and think I could not set the sleeves. They are gathered, but it looks okay. I pressed the seam allowances away from the sleeve and glued it down with stitch witchery so the gathers would not be as pronounced.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would love to make it in a linen, but I probably won't. Too many other projects and it is a little boxy for my shape and size. For some reason, probably the fabric choice, the jacket sticks out in the back and does not lay nicely against my lower back unless it is tied or I am tugging it forward. It is either a fit issue or a fabric issue

So I have a question for any experienced sewers out there. I know I cheated and did not get a real picture of the back. I don't think I have rounded shoulders (even though my posture sucks), but maybe that is the cause of the back being so wide and gaping along the lower band? It is very tent-like looking. Maybe the fabric choice? I could use some vertical darts back there. I tissue fitted the pattern, but never made a muslin. I did not have enough fabric to re-cut the bottom band with the amount of the darts removed so I left it as is.

I'm pretty happy with it nonetheless.

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