Saturday, September 24, 2011

A Fugly Muslin M6246

I started working on a muslin for this jacket.  I'm making view B, the pink jacket in the corner.  

For the muslin I used a winter white wool I bought at a Goodwill for $3.00.  I think there was about 5 yards and I used 1.5 for the muslin.  :)  

I measured a jacket that fits me well and flat pattern measured.  I decided a size 12 would be a good starting point, but I think its huge, especially in the back.  I also HATE the sleeves.  The darts are just weird.  I have very sloping shoulders and did not do an adjustment because the princess seam to the armhole was making things extra complicated. I did put in a temporary 1/4" should pad, which didn't do much.  Since I've been drafting my own patterns for school, I discovered I hate seam allowance.  I think I'll start making Burda patterns.  It is so much easier to manipulate the pattern before the seam allowance is added.   

I need help! The princess seams are in the wrong place, the body is huge, the sleeves are huge, the back looks awful... How should I adjust this muslin?  I'm thinking I should start again with a 10, but I'm not even liking the sleeves. I'd also need to shorten the pattern.  I might just switch to this pattern:


At least this jacket/coat has reviews on PR. Well, everyone and their mother has made it so I assume its a good pattern.  What do you think?


  1. Why wrestle with a pattern that you practically have to redraft? This is the lovely thing about muslins; you can dump a pattern without touching your "real" fabric. I like your next choice. Why not compare pattern pieces before cutting to see if you have to downsize. Good luck.

  2. If you really hate this one, ditch it and switch to M5525. I've got it in my stash and four other gals I follow have both made and loved it.

  3. Thanks for the advice Anonymous and Darci!

  4. I think the big pattern companies (McCalls, Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity) all tend to add a lot of extra ease to their patterns. I know I used to cut a size 12 for myself, corresponding to my 34" bust measurement, and was always disappointed with the fit.

    If you take a look at the finished measurements on the pattern, it looks like the finished bust measurement for the sz. 12 is 38"--that's 4 inches of ease!! In my structured draping class at FIT I think we learned to add about 1" for a more fitted undergarment, and maybe 2" for outerwear. Also, have you tried the muslin on with shoulder pads?

    Good luck on your quest for a great winter jacket! Love a great fabric find :)