FIDM Classes and Books: A Review

I'm slacking on my class and textbook reviews.  I think I might wait longer in the future like I did this time because I have actually had time to read and use the books.

On Wednesdays, I have my Computer Aided Design class.  In this class we learn to use Adobe Illustrator to create flats of garments we design.  So far we have learned how to create basic t-shirts, blouses and shirts, pants, and skirts.  It's a very fast pace class and I enjoy it a lot.  The homework is kind of intense though.  My eyeballs are starting to hurt from being on the computer so much.

The text book I am using is called Electric Fashion: Drawing Fashion Flats with Adobe Illustrator.

The author is my instructor as well.  The book is very clear and it shows how to work with Illustrator in a step-by-step fashion to create a flat.  My only problem with the book isn't really a problem, but more of a pet-peeve that I have.  I hate poor spelling.  Yes, I have been known to spell words wrong from time to time, or type them incorrectly in a hurry,  but in a published book?  There are so many typos, but they do not detract or distract from the actual information.  The book is SOOO informative and easy to read.  I've always been a Photoshop girl, but never used Illustrator in my life.  I now feel pretty confident in with my skills and it's only been a few weeks of class.  If you are interested in learning how to use Illustrator and like fashion and fashion sketching, I highly recommend the book.  Even if you aren't using Illustrator to make fashion flats, the book is very useful in teaching how to use the tools.  On the website, there is even a sneak peak of the book.  Check it out!

See the book here!

I'm also taking Computer Grading, Marking, and Cutting.  In this class we learn to grade basic patterns manually and then by computer using Gerber Software.  I think the thing I like most about the class is my teacher's perspective on grading, the software, and the industry in general.  He seems a little pessimistic at times, but that's something I can relate to.  Right off the bat, he told us that grading pretty much sucks.  It basically helps you cheat your way out of making a whole new pattern in a different size  and fitting it to a fit model.  He let us know right away that it's not a perfect system and many designers just don't care if there clothes fit all sizes.  He gave the example of commercial plus-size clothing.  It sounds like he knows a lot about the poor fitting of plus-size clothing first hand because he mentioned his wife is plus size.  He gave great example of fitting issues and explained ways of fixing those problems.  I really appreciated his input on the subject since I read about it often in many of the blogs I subscribe to.  I think good fit is really important and it will be something I strive for if I ever design my own line.  Sadly, in the world of mass production, clothes can't fit everyone perfectly.  I still can't find a button down blouse or a pencil skirt to fit me.

Anyways, so far in the class we have learned about the breakdowns or "breaks" in a standard front bodice, back bodice, and sleeve block.  A lot of the class is memorization, but if you understand the concepts it is a lot easier.  So far I have found the class very easy.

The book, The Essentials of Pattern Grading: The Projection of Cartesian Coordinates Into a Spherical Geometry of Fractal Order 2.5 Using Collinear Scaling As the Algebraic Matrix..... Clarified is very basic, but I'm not a fan of how it is written.  The concepts and pictures make a lot of sense, but I think the book is a little wordy.  It is difficult to weed through the junk to get to the important stuff.  That being said, our first assignment was to grade a bodice block without any real instruction from the teacher.  He basically said read the book, and follow the instructions. I read the intro chapter and bodice chapter as instructed and graded the pattern piece with almost no difficulty.  I followed directions and got an A on the assignment.  Some did poorly, and it seems others dropped the class.  I'm sure there are better books out there, but I understand it, so it works for me.  And it's only about $3 used on Amazon so if you want it, buy it!  You can definitely adapt the techniques to grade more complex patterns.  Like rare vintage patterns!

Here's a look inside!

My Textile Science class is going really well. I love my instructor and I am learning so much.  I mean sooo much!  My Pattern Drafting class is going well too. A little slow for me. We've drafted a basic skirt sloper, a 6-Gore flared skirt block, a waistband, and a flared skirt. In my last class, I was able to finish up trueing (sp?) my personal straight skirt sloper while working on the class assignment.  During my lunch break I cut out a muslin and sewed a sample.  I tried on the skirt during my last break and it fit pretty well. Some issues with the hip curve that I expected and the waist is a little big.  Easy things to fix. I had time in class to do all that!  I want more homework! Challenge me! Is that weird??


Just want to say that I am not being paid or asked to write any of the reviews I have written about classes or books.  I wish I was though :)  I need the money!


And I'm too tired to check for grammar or spelling errors. hehe.

1 Year Blogoversary!

April 23rd was my Blogoversary!  I couldn't post the day of because it was a whirlwind of a day with an out-of-town wedding to attend and the Boyfriend was a groom's man.

Lately I've been a bad blogger.  No posts in forever, and nothing all that exciting to show.

The Boyfriend's birthday was this past week and since I wasn't in town then, I brought up all his birthday presents with me for the wedding.  I made him a cotton/linen shirt with the Negroni Pattern.  It actually fits him really well, but the short sleeves were too long so I need to hem them and then mail it back to him.  I never got a picture of him in the shirt!!! AHHH!  I remembered at 5:30am when we were packing up the car to go the airport.  :(

I'll get pictures one of these days and take pictures of the shirt when the sleeves are hemmed and it is pressed.

I'll have a full review of the pattern later, but overall it was a great pattern to sew.  It went together beautifully and the construction of the yoke was interesting. Another burrito method, but slightly different. I'm definitely going to make it again for a winter plaid shirt.  My dad might get a version of it too.  He tried on the Boyfriend's shirt, and although it was a bit too small I could tell that the larger size would fit him well.  Much better than the Victoria Jones pattern I made for him for X-mas.

So I've decided that I will definitely have a vintage pattern giveaway when I reach 75 Followers. It didn't quite coincide with the blogoversary, but oh well!

I want to thank everyone who has continued to read and comment on the blog.  I read every comment even if I don't respond and they all mean so much to me.  I love the sewing/craft blog community so much and am so thankful to be accepted into it.  :)

Thanks to CCInspirations for becoming my latest follower!

And of course, my Pearl:

The "deer-in-headlights" look.  

The Humble Beginnings of a Sloper

I finally have been inspired to draft a sloper.  For those of you who do not know, a sloper is a basic pattern block of 5 pieces (front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt, and sleeve) without seam allowances.  From this perfect shell of your body, you can draft ANYTHING! I love my pattern drafting class and I thought, "What better way to practice than to draft my very own sloper."  The back of my book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition), has a personal measurement chart to fill in with every possible measurement!

I followed the directions from the book and started by drawing CF and CB lines down a tight fitting tank top and leggings.  I added bust points and a piece of elastic around my natural waist as a guide.  I had help drawing dots and lines on my neck, back, and shoulders to complete my human dressform look.  My helper measured anything I couldn't measure myself.  39 measurement points with some having 2-4 different measurements.  It took a while, but we just finished.  I'm excited to start by drafting a basic skirt.  I've already done it for class twice and it is very quick and easy.  If I can get it to fit soon, I'm going work on drafting a high-waisted pencil skirt as my first real project! In between my classes, homework, and a possible internship....you know, when I have time...HAHAHA!

To prove that I drew on myself with an emerald green marker:

I photoshopped out the bust point X's.  It looked too pornographic for blog post.

Just a few more followers until my vintage pattern giveaway!  Yesterday we bought 2 huge boxes of older patterns (one box was a dud though) with 60's, 70's, and 80's patterns.  I'll pick some of the nice ones from there and from another stash of patterns we bought a while ago.

Maybe it will coincide with my 1st Blogoversary on April 23rd!

My Amazing Friend's Amazing Weaving

My Craft Center friend (and first sewing teacher) made me this gorgeous wool/mercerized cotton scarf over the last several months.  Isn't it beautiful?  She dyed the wool and I think she spun it as well. (I could be mistaken about the spinning) Then she hand wove it on a horizontal loom.   Geez.... hours and hours went into this project and I feel so lucky and grateful to be the owner!  

Check out that intricate design.  She said the warp threads are mercerized cotton and the weft is wool and some mercerized cotton.  

I tried hand weaving years and years ago, but I hated it! I did not like the instructor and she forced the class to make a gamp or a "fabric that tells us what happens when different colors, weave structures, or types of thread intersect," instead of working on a real project.  Well, because the gamp took too long, I never had time to make anything cool or pretty.  

 I will probably wear it somewhat like this.  Maybe with a pretty pin:

 Here's another view of it!

Thanks V!

New Sewing Books? Suggestions?

I received a Barnes and Noble gift card for Xmas this year and decided to finally spend it on sewing/pattern books.  I was thinking about getting these books:

Pattern Magic

Shirtmaking

High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers: A Step-By-Step Guide to Sewing Stylish Seams, Buttonholes, Pockets, Collars, Hems, And More (Rodale Sewing Book)

Power Sewing Step-By-Step

I'm actually trying to decide between the Shaeffer and the Betzina books.  I know they are different and I want to get the most bang for my buck.  You know what I mean? Also, is there a better Shirtmaking book?   I'm definitely getting the Pattern Magic book though.  I've been all giddy about pattern drafting since my first class yesterday.  

Any other suggestions would be AWESOME too.  :)

And as always, a thanks to my new followers:  Shadow and Call Me Su!

Thanks!

Yea...we cuddle. No, she's not suffocating.

FIDM: Quarter 3 Begins

Hi Everyone! Thanks for all the lovely comments on the dress so far!  I'm definitely going to make other versions of it.

I forgot to show you this:

This is what I came home to (the Boyfriend's house) after my 7 hr drive in the pouring rain up to Northern California.  The Boyfriend set this all up before he went to work (minus the Pearl) so when I arrived I had the rose petals, the love note, a movie, the chocolate, flowers, drinks, and other snacks waiting for me.  He even bought Pearl Beggin' Strips!  I'm so lucky! 

Anyways....

Yesterday I had my first class of the quarter: Textile Science!  I loved it!  I feel like I'm actually back in college.  I actually had to take copious notes.   My instructor, Deborah Young, is a great lecturer and she wrote our Swatch Reference Guide book.  The book is very thorough and has helped me already identify fabrics.  There are 200 fabric swatches you have to assemble in the book, but they are all very good quality and so informative.  I highly recommend this reference guide!
Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics


In class we also received another textbook.  I haven't really gone through it all that much, but its more scientific than the Swatch Reference:  J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science 9th edition


Today I had my first ever pattern drafting class. We drafted a basic skirt block from the measurements of the dressform.  I am sooo excited for prospects of pattern drafting.  Thankfully it is coming very naturally to me.  All you need in the beginning to draft slopers is to follow the directions.  We are using Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition) by Helen Joseph Armstrong.  I think the book is great, even though I found a few typos already.  Maybe older versions are better.  This book is great because it not only teaches how to draft for industry, but also for individual people (ie. YOU....and most importantly ME!)  I have these pants I designed for my final in Fashion Sketching II that I am dying to make.  I'm definitely going to draft them one of these days!  Do you want to see my sketch?

A brief summary next week on my Computer Grading, Marking, and Cutting class, and Computer Aided Fashion design.

McCall's 5753 V-Neck Dress

While I was on vacation in Northern California, I spent 3 days at the UC Davis Craft Center. I visited with friends and worked on the dress (now OOP).  I'm so happy that I got to see friends, but it definitely slowed down the construction.  Of course I brought way too much to accomplish, and only finished the dress.  Here it is:

My styling is horrible(shoe choice).  I had a limited selection as I was on vacation.

 I'm relatively happy with the results.  (I'm such a perfectionist so when things don't line up absolutely perfectly, I get a little annoyed).  This is the first fitted dress of a woven material that I made!  I tend to make and wear knits because I have a hard time fitting wovens on my body.  The fabric is a cotton/spandex sateen ($1/yd. woohoo!) and the dress is fully lined with bemberg rayon (the instructions call for lining the bodice only).  The dress lining is a first for me as well.  I didn't use the directions, but used the Slapdash Sewist's tutorial.  I already knew the basics of lining, but needed a quick reminder on which seams to leave open.  The problem I found with this method was that it is difficult to fit.  The side seams are sewn after the lining is installed.  Even though I made a muslin that fit, for some reason, after I sewed the side seams, the dress was too big. I had to completely unpick it and take it in.  I took a total of 2 inches from the underarm seam tapering to nothing at the fullest part of my hip so I still have a "1/2inch pinch" of ease that the fullest part.   All of the other adjustments are here.

The front.

The back.

I decided to handpick the zipper (another first for me!). I didn't find it difficult, but I got lazy because I was chatting with friends and decided I didn't need to baste the zipper in first. I only pinned it.  This caused the zipper to pull a little in certain areas and you can see the zipper teeth :( No one really should notice this though because of the print and the zipper doesn't really look bad.  I also hand stitched the lining to the zipper to finish and blind catch-stitched the hem.

 On my vacation I also went skiing in Tahoe(weeee), and went to the Alameda Flea Market.  I bought NOTHING :( except a falafel and the yummiest mini donuts I've ever had in my entire life!  I saw Mena from The Sew Weekly from a distance.  I recognized her by her dress.

Also, my sewing friend made me the the most beautiful woven scarf. I'm definitely sharing pictures as soon as it dries (I just washed it to full it a little bit).

School just started back up again today and I'll have a report shortly. I love my textile science class!  I've already learned so much in just 3 hours!  I'm going to be doing a lot of blogging this weekend I think :)

Finally, THANKS to my newest followers Lindsey and Jen of Sew Frugal & Fashionable!