Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Valentino-Inspired Bustier

For the next draping project, I have to create a Valentino-inspired bustier.  I learned that the difference between a bustier and a corset is the amt. of shaping that occurs. A bustier shapes slightly and goes with the curves of the body.  A corset completely transforms the shape of the body and molds it into another shape completely.

I have to be inspired by Valentino, so I chose his simple, pleated details:

interesting pleated?  textile on bodice

love the pleats, hate everything else :)

two above from 2001.

This is what I've got pictures of so far.  Just draping in muslin.   I actually didn't end up using this drape.   I have pleated the heck out of my fabric and have attached it to the foundation, but I forgot to take pictures today.  I spent all day Monday pleating, and all day Tuesday hand sewing the pleats and making the outer layer of the bustier.

Sorry for the poor quality of photos again.  My phone is not smart, nor does it take good photos.  I need an upgrade.  

Here are the fabrics I am using for the design:

A gorgeous purple dupioni silk shantung. A generous gift from another student who acquired it from a friend.  He said a relative? of his friend willed the fabric to a fashion design student and he got a whole lot of beautiful fabrics.  

And, gasp! a polyester charmeuse lining.  This is a $1.50/yd purchase.  The colors go so well together and it will be perfect lining fabric.  Floral, feminine, and sort of Valentino.  Mixing silk and poly is just wrong, but I refuse to spend a lot of money on a school project that I can't even wear!  
And while I'm at it, here are other recent fabric acquisitions:

Grey Silk Gabardine from the FIDM scholarship store of all places.  $2.00/yd.

Brown/purple-y Wool/spandex blend suiting from FIDM scholarship store.  $2.00/yd.

shiny black Cotton/Spandex sateen from FIDM scholarship store.  $2.00/yd.  It looks grey in the pictures because its so shiny.  I'm using this for a dress (that I have to sew tonight!) for my pattern drafting class. 

Unknown cotton like plain-weave prints from swapmeet  $1.50/yd. 

Livebird, winner of the "name the dress" giveaway, please email me your info so I can send you the pattern! You have until Friday!

More to come this weekend when I have more time to blog.  I have to get back to drafting a shirt sloper and then sew that dress!


  1. Wow if that's the one you didn't use I can't wait to see the real deal!

  2. Good luck with your bustier, it is going to be amazing! I hear you on the difficulties of free-form pleating. I made my daughter's ball dress with a pleated strapless, boned top similar to what you are attempting but with more random, widely spaced pleats. The most difficult thing was making it so the pleats matched up on all the vertical seams. It took me about a week before I was satisfied! But we were both extremely happy with it when it was finished.
    If you are interested it is here

  3. Can't wait to see your finished version!

  4. Hello! I'm super excited I won the pattern because my friend whom I'm teaching to sew is bursting to make a cheongsam, and this is her size. But I can't see an email address on your blog. Did I miss the boat? I'm livebirdblog_at_gmail_dot_com.

    I'm astonished at this FIDM store bargain pricing! Your draping looks splendid.

  5. This is looking very interesting. You have some lovely fabrics on the table.